equipment

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Re: equipment

Postby superslotter07 » Wed Nov 18, 2015 1:28 pm

I am looking for some advice.
I am a golf professional who under Bradley has gone back to my swing of old. I am hitting the irons so much better and still have some issues with the woods. They feel a little light and I was hoping for some feedback as to how other players have their woods set up.
I am on staff with a manufacturer and need to play the newest equipment.
My driver is currently D4 at 44 1/2 inches with a Rogue 70 X flex tipped 1inch
My 3 wood has an 85 gram X flex
Any suggestions on heavier graphite shafts?
Thanks for any responses
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Re: equipment

Postby Mashie72 » Wed Nov 18, 2015 3:16 pm

I'm not sure if there is a good ABS answer.. Hope someone else can chime in and help. My only take is try to get the flattest stock head they have and tweak the shaft coupling setting as flat as possible. Most likely still way too upright but that's probably the best you can do as far as I know
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Re: equipment

Postby k2baloo » Wed Nov 18, 2015 5:41 pm

Hmmm... That's quite the dilemma. I can say I have tried many different driver options because it is what I have struggled with the most throughout my life and I never was able to find anything that worked well. I have swung heavy graphite and even steel in modern heads and weighted them up, but have still had issues. Recently I have started playing persimmon more and more and have been discovering a lot more control off of the tee.
There are a couple of issues that you simply can't overcome with modern sticks though. First is the head size is obviously much larger than vintage gear, sets the CG much further from the face of the club than in older clubs. Also, the trampoline like faces of modern gear used to increase the COR of the club are completely different than vintage designs.
These differences cause a couple of problems that you can't overcome in modern gear:
1. This article helps explain why modern drivers are insanely hard to control due to a CG deep in the head http://www.golfwrx.com/327036/gear-effect-controlling-your-driver/
2. Modern drivers are designed to have the ball come off hot, high, and low spinning. Which is great for distance but not control. Persimmon is much easier to flight and work both ways because of this and for those reasons easier to keep in play in general. I am terrified to play a draw with modern drivers but find it quite easy with persimmon.

I realize that doesn't help you, but they are some thoughts I wanted to post for the general forum's sake.

But really with a modern head the best you can do is find the heaviest, stiffest shaft and try to get the lie angle flatter. The real effect of an incorrect lie with a driver is marginal, but some still find it helpful to play flat drivers (could help visually/mentally). Best of luck in your professional endeavors!

Oh and I should add you can always try digging up older equipment threads and I'm sure you would find talk of how ABS people have set up modern drivers. I know I have seen some information on that somewhere.
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Re: equipment

Postby norcalvol » Wed Nov 18, 2015 5:47 pm

k2baloo wrote:...I'm sure you would find talk of how ABS people have set up modern drivers. I know I have seen some information on that somewhere.


I believe NRG has done this, and others that I can't think of at the moment...
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Re: equipment

Postby Ded2Journey » Wed Nov 18, 2015 8:05 pm

superslotter07 wrote:I am looking for some advice.
I am a golf professional who under Bradley has gone back to my swing of old. I am hitting the irons so much better and still have some issues with the woods. They feel a little light and I was hoping for some feedback as to how other players have their woods set up.
I am on staff with a manufacturer and need to play the newest equipment.
My driver is currently D4 at 44 1/2 inches with a Rogue 70 X flex tipped 1inch
My 3 wood has an 85 gram X flex
Any suggestions on heavier graphite shafts?
Thanks for any responses


I went to a 44" steel in my J33R bridgestone driver, I'll never go back. I play a 43" 82g diamana white in my 3W @ D1, but plan to change it to a steel next year as well==too inconsistent. I like the DG X100, but have found the X300 tip stiff is pretty solid too. I've got a plan to buy some old Hogan woods and pull the shafts out of those (#4 or 5 shafts), but craigslist has not been too kind to me in my search. You'll have to toy with lead tape and counterbalancing too, because building leverage isn't about science, it's about feel with the ABS protocols. I've found that C8-D1 work best for playing, but D8 and above work best for drilling. Funny part is that you have to toy with each club separately... it's weird. Plus, not everyone has the strength of Moe Norman.

My best recommendation would be to find some fine persimmon clubs (ABS'd would work best) and attempt to mimic the feels/swingweight/etc. Best of luck man...it's quite a journey.
"People have always been telling me what I can't do. I guess I have wanted to show them. That's been one of my driving forces all my life." -Ben Hogan
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Re: equipment

Postby NRG » Thu Nov 19, 2015 12:34 am

You can put lead tape under the grip on a graphite shaft, but not much else you can do with graphite, tip weight are only about 2gms.

What about a driver with changeable head weights??

You can drill a hole in the head and pour in some non drying rat glue - the old Titleists have a hole pre drilled for this that they used to swing weight them, but you then have to plug the hole.

Easiest way to add weight is to put in a steel shaft, you can add tip weights or tungsten powder to a steel shaft as well(about 10g).
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Re: equipment

Postby HelterSkelter » Thu Nov 19, 2015 1:04 am

Tom Wishon profiles all the shafts he can get his hands on and works out the bend profile from about 7 stiffness points on the shaft (41", 36", 31", 26", 21", 16", 11") fairly scientifically - he writes about how he does it.

He has an application that you can buy with all the data in it. I think if you just asked him what you were looking for he would probably tell you without the need for the software - he seems pretty helpful. You'd have to ask him if it has the very latest shafts in it.

I used some of his figures posted on WRX and other places to work out what might work for me.

I have a Titleist 913 10.5 D3 with 75g RIP Phemon X Flex and it's great.

Not suggesting to go for that shaft as your swing speed is no doubt higher than mine - but it might be a way for you to work out what you need.

Also this graph seems to be fairly accurate...

http://www.aldila.com/custom-fitting/fitting-guide/

Here are some of the figures I found... just examples of the sort of data he has:
BUTT,MIDDLE,TIP - Use last 3 in combination to work out tip stiffness - he explains how it works if you read up.

Aldila RIP Alpha (red) 80-2.0-X ( 190 220 256 326 425 561 866 )
Aldila NV 85 X ( 188 215 255 312 410 543 888 )
Mitsubushi Diamana White 83 X5CT X ( 185 212 248 304 387 527 851 )

I also play permsimmon with steel shafts as well and although these shafts are not comparable in weight, once you have a lighter <210g head on them they feel pretty stiff.

Hope this helps - more of an idea of where to look rather than a specific shaft that might be right.
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Re: equipment

Postby HelterSkelter » Thu Nov 19, 2015 1:18 am

I should have said with the Aldila fitting graph - ignore the launch and spin thing, but the bottom left being the stiffest shaft.
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Re: equipment

Postby twomasters » Thu Nov 19, 2015 9:52 pm

I use 80g Diamana Blue in the driver which is tipped 2 1/2 inches. I use lower loft woods and the Diamana blue is a low launch shaft- basically designed with a high kick point to keep the flight down.
I use the same shaft in a 14 degree and a 16 degree- 90g- again both tipped 2 1/2 inches.Heavy graphite doesnt tend to work with the heads that well either.
The tipping of the graphite shaft has done absolute wonders and something I would recommend for anyone who has the chance to do such a thing. It absolutely minimizes any upshoot or spin because the head is so much more stable and it eliminates the shaft kick due to fibres that can be inconsistent.
I would preferably use steel in modern woods but they just dont work as well with the head design. Also I dont use any extra weight (tape on the head) as I think that doesnt suit their design either. I use weights in the head (depending on the model) but only 5g or less and never mismatch them. If there is a heel and a toe weight keep them the same- not one heavy and one light as they tend to produce them with.
Obviously I get my gear for free and have been able to fool around with a bunch of different combos to find what works best- but that is the best way I have come across to have woods that dont go straight up- dont overspin and are best for control and ability to HIT them consistently without the shaft causing trouble
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Re: equipment

Postby twomasters » Fri Nov 20, 2015 9:35 pm

Despite the best efforts of Alec trying to claim I dont even know what shafts I am using over at SITD here is the website info below
The Diamana shaft I use is mid/high kick just as I said... and I stiffen the tip up by having it tipped 2 1/2 inches just as I said
http://www.mrc-golf.com/products/kaili%E2%84%A2
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